I loved the native spring water,so compellingly saline. Wild stuff. (The native water is always an intersting clue to a regions terroir for me)

The best foods were those marvelous clay oven breads, the odd wild capers marinated, the dumplings, the carnelian cherry juice, the vivid Matisse like colors of the table, the fresh herbs on the table for munching instead of chips, buffalo milk cheese, the feral tasting honey, the bean soup and the pickles.